Berber Market II and the Ourika Valley

We are home; that is how special Riad Misria is for a family traveling with kids. As we walked down the alley a shriek went up and the neighborhood boys cried out for J. He tossed them the soccer ball and a great war whoop rang out, we haven't seen J since, we've only heard the cries of glee echoing up the alley walls.

Sammy and Miriam were here as we walked in and we compared stories from Ourika Valley. The lovely Miriam was cooking a great vat of couscous while simultaneously helping us get our filthy clothes into a real washing machine AND making plans for us to get a henna design from her sister. We love Miriam so much we can't wait to meet her family. Staying at the Riad is so much like being in a great family lodge, plenty of room and comfort with great company around every corner. Rick and Baby-O are already in the pool.

The Berber Market was truly an experience, now that we have power here are more photos:

Here's a village up above where the market took place:

This river originates out of the Atlas Mountain snow- it's an oasis for donkeys but deadly during flood years. A handful of years ago it wiped out whole villages and killed hundreds.

A Berber man selling wool.

A donkey loaded down with tagines, the classic Moroccan cooking/serving vessel- these ones are for real, not for tourists.

I got stuck behind the donkey much Gigi's bemusement- a traffic jam of sorts!

This is a 'modern' butter churn. It takes an hour of shaking to make butter, it was made out of recycled cans. Gigi said it was light as a rose.

An earthen oven for cooking lamb. It takes 2 hours to roast the meat.

People didn't pay much attention to us because this market happens only once a week and it was clear business was the subject at hand.

Blacksmiths at work.

This was a 'banquet room' Berber-style in one of the 'restaurants'. 

We continued up the road and passed women herding sheep.

The Atlas loomed large in the distance.

The kids were ecstatic to see these.

Villages along the way.

We stopped along the river for a tagine.

These musicians came out of nowhere to the delight of Baby-O.

They disappeared as quickly as they'd emerged, walking up the riverbed.

The beauty of the valley is impossible to relay in words. It's an oasis of a different kind.

Atlas Mountains, Berber Market and Marrakech Souks

We drove to the Atlas Mountains today. Our amazing Tunisian compadres (they're also staying at Riad Misria) helped Rick get the rental car. The beautiful Miriam led us through the souks so we could hook up with the vehicle. The new Norwegian father and daughter came along for their first dip into Marrakech. We paused to take a closer look. . .

The kids were transfixed by miniature turtles.

Chameleons.

Miriam and I by the beauty supplies like olive soap and clay from the Atlas mountains for the traditional Moroccan bath. (more on that soon-Gigi and I experienced one yesterday)

Market everywhere.

We hit the road flawlessly thanks to Sammy and Miriam and realized we were on empty. We stopped here.

Only to learn the gas was strictly for scooters!

Grass for donkeys' only!

We stopped at a Berber market we'd read about. We were the ONLY tourists. It was beyond an experience.

This was a real market with villagers coming from far away to load up.

More to follow. On 2% battery and we left the adaptor back in Marrakech. We called Michel to tell him we'd be back tomorrow to the Riad. We'll hike first, go on a camel ride and then back to find carpets, daggers, potions and pottery in the lovely Marrakech- a haven for kids and adults alike.

Goodnight.

Marrakech outside the Souks

It's really something to be amongst donkeys and feet with 110cc motor scooters being the only 'vehicle' we've seen for days. Although walking the souks in Marrakech is intense, crowded, and sometimes loud (always filled with strange smells); we'd forgotten how numbing and stinky it is to be amongst automobiles and buses. 

Strain in the photo above. Do you see the wheelchair in the roundabout? I thought that was hilarious! We were in a horse drawn carriage on our way to Yves Saint Laurent's gift to the people of Marrakech: 

Jardin Majorelle, the gardens were peaceful following the traffic and fumes. The cacti were lovely and reminded us of our beloved Tucson.

Even Baby-O's doll, Ximena loved the cacti.

Ximena also loved the cafe. We loved the cushions and fabrics which are a Moroccan staple in interior design.

Here is our Berber driver. He was very kind although from behind I couldn't help but wonder if Obi-Wan's face might look back at us.

Marrakech takes a bit of courage and resoluteness for haggling and intensity of interaction shall we say. Take a look at this couple sorting out details with a potential horse carriage driver. Not for the faint-hearted but surmountable. J has become an extraordinary haggler and has nerves of steel. Funny enough Moroccans of Arabic descent call him a 'Berber' when he haggles Berber's call him 'Catalan' when he haggles!

We saw an ancient fortress that was just ok. After the splendor of Andalucia's monuments it's hard to compare. The storks however were amazing.

Baby-O on the other hand thought it was a grand visit! See the ruins in the background.

Here is one of the few (and I mean this was a single tile) remaining pieces other than wall. 

Turns out the fortress was destroyed 300 years ago! We all thought that fact turned out to be funny.

Back on the streets and in the souks (markets) we reveled in the sights.

Apple stores eat your heart out. Here's Apple Store souk style!

It was across from here where J and Rick were buying bread and yogurt.

It made us realize how terrific our Riad Misria's location is; we are only steps away from where the souks start so we all vowed to try to not see cars unless we're driving one out of the city- we will tomorrow into the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. We bagged the oasis when we saw the hairpin turns we'd endure on a 6 hour trip to our destination OVER the Atlas Mountains. Plus, we are so happy at our Riad (a Norwegian family with children arrived last night) that we want to savor a great thing. When we went around Marrakech today and saw the horrible locations of other riads (busy roads or in the middle of nothing) we thanked our lucky stars to have chosen well. Accommodations are everything, period.