Showing posts with label why a family sabbatical. Show all posts
Showing posts with label why a family sabbatical. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Costa Rica with Kids---"first with your head, then with your heart"

Life as an expat or as a sabbatical family is as nutty as regular life. A favorite expat family recently lamented that friends back in England picture them in the pool sipping a pina colada when in fact, he reflected, that the same demands of life continue, just in a different location with different challenges. Back in London he wasn't worrying about a python on his patio- true story!

So, I stumbled upon this post that somehow never got published. I had to laugh because we've just moved again- after 4 houses we have finally found home. We don't regret the journey and this way we know how to spot a great gig when we see it. More on our new place and how to choose a locale another day.


____________This would have been penned more than two years ago:


We've moved. We've had 9 guests. We've had a power cord left behind in the States. . . you get the picture. Hello again.




Looking at the Continental Divide as winds from the Atlantic and Pacific pummeled from different directions.

We've also officially passed the six month mark living here. The kids can hold their own in Spanish and I know how to renew my car insurance with the national company. Gigi can take out arachnids and other creatures without hardly missing a beat. I told her she would probably be reincarnated as a Jain at the rate she's going. . .

***Update:
Gigi two years later is reading Don Quixote in Spanish and J just finished reading a novel in Spanish by a Chilean (Sepulveda) that is taught in University. Now, Costa Rican's look at them to communicate as if I can't speak Spanish because although I'm probably more fluent, their accents are more authentic.

Back to two years ago:

We've spent most of the last 6 weeks seeing the country through the eyes of guests. Costa Rica is the little country that can. Over 25% of the country is protected---a great thing for us all considering this tiny place, 181 times smaller than the US, contains 5% of the world's biodiversity.

That's considered the highest density than any other country in the world.  What does that mean? 35,000 types of insects to keep Gigi busy. Over 50 species of hummingbirds. 10% of known butterfly species reside in Costa Rica. 175 different types of Amphibians live in Costa Rica- 85% of which are frogs. 225 reptiles are found in Costa Rica- we've been lucky to have had only encounters with snakes killed by the Nicaraguans who have worked the two places we have lived. We have, however, stood over wild crocodiles and so did my hair! There are 894 species of birds in Costa Rica. Gigi spotted a scarlet macaw recently and more than once we've had the honor of seeing and hearing toucans; there is something wildly impossible about their heavy beak and rainbow colors that make your hair rise for reasons other than does a crocodile.

Photo by expat Paul
Update: I saw these two the morning of my birthday recently, they were an incredible present.

There are 6 active volcanoes in Costa Rica and 61 dormant ones; we now live at the foothills of an extinct volcano. Nearly 20 years ago Rick and I camped below the active Arenal Volcano here in Costa Rica and woke up with a grey tent from the ash--- seeing the orange lava burst upward and spray out like a fireworks show in the middle of the night, is one of my top life experiences---it was also one of the scariest! In the pitch black, it felt like we should be running to get the heck out of dodge!

Sadly, Arenal went dormant in 2010. We will go back there in a couple of weeks with good friends from Washington, the hot springs are still flowing and it is a favorite place to visit for one and all.

Update: visiting our favorite hot spring hotel in Arenal a couple of months ago




Life goes on by way of learning.



Gigi's creation for her presentation on medicine during the Black Death


The flora never ceases to amaze. Just moments after this photo was taken our toddler would bend over to smell a flower only to illicit shrieking from our guide and panic. He described it as poisonous- sure enough, before our very eyes a giant blister appeared on her nose. Days later it would look like she'd face planted on asphalt after being thrown from a bike- it was that bad.

*Update: she healed, but she has a series of freckles exactly in that spot.


There are over 200 species of Heliconias, we are reminded daily about the magic of nature.


Growth abounds in all ways. Especially in each of us.


Update:
This kiddo has now danced, sung and recited in more Costa Rican independence days than in her native country. It's an odd realization.


Here she is in this year's 2014 event. She's the far left with the flower headband. 


So much has happened in the last couple of years. A dead goat . . . jumping off of waterfalls, a tarantula in the car,  feeling like the language acquisition would never happen,  getting used to driving in a country where road signs are as scarce as snow in the winter. . . 

We've grown up 



from when we first started writing about family sabbatical back when we spent some time in Andalucia



 But our experiences remain with us

Marrakech when the kids were in 4th and 6th grade






The good

and the bad (and boring)


The biggest lesson has been about not holding back.


Jumping into the very things that seem the most difficult.

 And when you are on sabbatical a lot will be difficult.



But even more will take your breath away.




Over


and over.


I love the direct communion with wonder that happens with frequency if you choose to do this with the short and precious life we have.



You find out that you might start out hating papaya and grow to like them.


You learn that stopping to take in a sunset over the ocean always is worthwhile.


That there are as many different beaches as there are people and each one has their magic.



Thanks to all of you who reach out wanting to talk about your own family sabbatical. I had a chance to sit down just yesterday and talk with a family whom I met via the blog last year and are now living here in Costa Rica with their four children. I've marveled at how well they have slipped into life and what a great job they do at enjoying it. 

It reminds me that the hardest thing about a family sabbatical might just be 
taking the plunge to do it. 

If you want to talk about it, reach me at familyintow@gmail.com

I titled this post 'First with your head, then with your heart' because at the time, I was reading the great South African novel, The Power of One. Embarking on our third year of living away from the US, in a Spanish speaking country and where our children have also had to learn French, I will say that the experience changes you: first with your head, and then with your heart.



________________________________________________



From the first months of living here:



From a trip to Oxford, England on our first Family Sabbatical:













Monday, September 8, 2014

What to do around San Jose Costa Rica and welcoming a new sabbatical family


Welcome T & A and family!! 4 kids and a year's sabbatical- you guys are terrific!

 The San Jose area has  treasures to uncover, delight and remind you that you are in Costa Rica and that life is an adventure. These outings can also be a tonic for the struggles that involve everyday expat life--- we found that we really had to make time to enjoy being here before things like traffic, falling walls and failing insulation drove us nuts.

I know you have loads of guests in the works so I hope this is helpful!

In no particular order:

Sibu Chocolate Tour

Photo from CostaRicaCustomTrips.com



Sibu is the name of the creator god for 2 out of the 8 Costa Rican indigenous tribes. If you just had that feeling of spontaneous learning ('I didn't know Costa Rica had 8 ethnic groups!') and you liked it, then you will like visiting Sibu. Founded by a university historian and a journalist, this is an experience meant to cultivate learning as much as tasting. Our kids have unanimously decided to go back every single time we have guests in town.

Located just shy of the pass that takes you into the biggest rain forest of Costa Rica, Sibu's setting is lovely. Set amidst tropical flora, you'll sit al fresco on a colonial style veranda, taste chocolate, hear its story and how it relates to Costa Rica. You'll finish with a delicious lunch prepared by a savvy Costa Rican chef. The gift shop is well curated.

Spoiler Alert: You will never think of white chocolate in the same way ever again!




TIPS:
Bring a light jacket. Guests will enjoy a 'real' tropical rainforest environment.
Sibu will accommodate special food requests.
5+ or enjoy roaming the grounds with the littlest ones.
* I would be sure to tell the ever-helpful Erika who books the tours exactly how old your children are- the talk is at its best when your host peppers the kiddos with questions and invites guessing.
Sibu chocolates make great gifts.



Jade Museum

image from metmuseum.org
 **Nelson Rockefeller bequeathed this Costa Rican frog pendant from the 4th-8th Century  to the Metropolitan Museum. . there's another interesting topic in itself. More frogs' to follow.


Not only does the Jade Museum hold the largest jade collection in the world, you'll also be treated to lots of other Pre-Columbian gems, natural history and a good dose of geography. There is a Shamanic collection of pieces that is truly memorable and lots to keep both children and adults interested. 
The 7,000+ piece strong collection has never been exhibited in its entirety before now- the breadth of it and the quality is really something to behold- I couldn't cover a third of it and I was in an all-adult crowd! The newly opened (some bumps because it is literally brand new) 5 story multi-million dollar building is a beauty and the location perfect for seeing some interesting parts of San Jose.

FOOD:
**An authentic Italian restaurant that is within striking distance of the museum is a terrific stop if you want to break up the 'casado' fare. The owner and staff are wonderful. You'll find it on the corner just past the parking that sits behind the museum--- Sapore Trattoria 2222-8906

TIPS:
Try to visit on a Tuesday so you can take advantage of the National Theater noon concert  (see below) if you have guests with limited time to see the area.

Closes at 3:30
The new location makes for a nice San Jose outing-
1. The National Museum is almost next door (can be underwhelming but a good overview of Costa Rican history).
2. National Park: There is a beautiful park a couple block's away that is a green oasis and fun people watching.





image from delapuravida.com


I never get tired of visiting San Jose's crown jewel- the National Theater. It is a beautiful building to be sure, but what is really fascinating is absorbing just what was going on during the 'Coffee Rush' or the era of black gold. Built at the very end of the 1800's, you will be able to grasp how San Jose was able to follow behind New York and Paris in being amongst the first to electrify the city. (San Jose opened a power plant in 1884) Kids will be tickled spotting all the 'real gold' and imagining all the goods being shipped over from Europe to outfit the building.

*Be sure to take in the noon concert at the National Theater on Tuesday's. It is almost free and a great variety of entertainment is presented- you won't go wrong. Stay for a fascinating tour of the theater after with Jeff- he is extremely knowledgable and speaks excellent English.


*Kids and guests alike will delight in the pigeon-filled square that is adjacent to the theater. You can easily walk on the pedestrian-only avenue that will take you to the new Jade Museum.


FOOD:
The cafe located at the entrance of the theater is a great stop for all. Decadent ice cream concoctions, coffee drinks, and a host of bakery make for a fun visit.

Tips:
Plan to arrive around 11am to buy your tickets for the noon concert (or by them online) and then slip over to the cafe.The waitstaff knows how to hustle to make sure you will arrive to your seat in time for the start of the show.

****Thursdays at 5pm the salon upstairs (think a miniature version of a Versailles affair) hosts free Chamber music that lasts around an hour.

Image from travelcostarica.com


Repeat. Don't miss the tour with Jeff. Tickets can also be purchased at the box office.

You'll have the chance to see lots of butterflies around Costa Rica, this garden is the place where you'll learn enough to feel like an encyclopedia and make all future butterfly encounters mean something.  You'll also be able to challenge the family to have a good ethical ponder about butterfly 'farming.' If the kids ever had a 'butterfly release' day there's a possibility they may have come from here.


Started by a former Peace Corps volunteer and now one of the world's largest butterfly 'suppliers,' one of the parts that most fascinated our kids and our guests was seeing how they package/ship. It's a real curiosity and a great opportunity to see just how something is done that you hadn't imagined. 
You reach it by taking the 'beach highway' and it's also a great way to see how much the weather and surroundings can change based on where you are in the Central Valley. La Garita area is hot most of the year and is nice snapshot of a rural area (floor of the valley vs. mountains of Heredia) that feels pretty far from the bustle of San Jose even though it's less than a half hour away.





Gold Museum

The Jade Museum is administered by the national insurance company, the Pre-Columbian Gold Museum is administered by the central bank- there's another topic for the kiddos! The 1600 artifacts in this collection date from 500 AD to 1500 AD It's a bit like walking through a vault which is unique in itself (there's a coin museum on-site as a bonus!). I still remember the gold frogs from when I visited 20 years ago; what is really a mind-blow is seeing the miniature red dart frog depicted in gold so long ago alive and well hopping around places like Arenal.


Image from smugmug.com

Or in green at Monteverde

Image from govisitcostarica.com

or Red-eyed green. . . (ok I've only seen these behind glass in Costa Rica and out in the wild in Nicaragua!) 

Image from kazjaz.com (a beautiful sabbatical year blog)


Now, top these colors off with the fact that these dart frogs are poisonous and indigenous people coated their weapons with the frogs' toxins and you've got some kiddos- talking material! 

Tip:
Bring jackets. Vault-like setting means that it can get chilly.
Closes at 4:30


InbioParque

Located close by in Santo Domingo, InbioParque is billed as an eco-tourist park. The expansive grounds are supposed to represent the biodiversity found in Costa Rica. Bear in mind, it is man-made and a bit dated but our littlest one never tires of spotting the (real) sloth in the trees, seeing the pretend crocodiles, pointing at the huge tarantulas that remind her of the real ones we've seen since we lived here. The very best of InbioParque for our family has been the petting zoo area.
This is a kid-outing.


On one hand, living in Costa Rica you're surrounded by nature and spectacular nature at that. Going to InbioParque reminds me just how much contact with animals and freedom to interact means to well, to just about everyone.

There's a lot of laughs to be had at the goats who will eat your clothing and the baby animals never cease to illicit a sense of wonder.

Grandparents and guests with really little ones will especially enjoy the outing.


The volcano exhibit might need some polishing but there's great old footage of Costa Rica's volcanoes and the 'simulator' is always fun.




TIPS:

Guides are available which help you get the most from your price of admission. Take the kiddos' student ID's- there's a big price difference between locals and tourists. 

InbioParque does a lot of weekend festivals, many with an ethnic theme. Food is available with local vendors that fit the theme. Our kiddos especially love the ones that involve chocolate. . .



Set in the beautiful hills near Santa Barbara, The Ark Herb Farm is a trip alright. So is the owner if he is around when you go. The Ark has one of the biggest collections of medicinal herbs in Costa Rica. It's a fantastic way to be able to have a better sense of the things you'll see in the markets and what beneficial properties they hold in store for you.

Photo from AM Costa Rica


There's one tree that 'bleeds' when cut with a knife, Gigi had a terrible cut on her knee which I swear the 'blood' from this tree healed her right up. The red fluid from the tree supposedly is an antiseptic and creates a 'skin'. 

The Ark is behind the label of Escazu Spices and provides the cruise ships and restaurants with herbs, lettuces and other goodies. You'll see the distribution center packaging up goods and have a chance to buy as many plants as you wish. It could be a fun project for the kiddos to pick what they are interested in and see how they grow up on the mountain. 

It's a fun outing for any guests who are passionate about plants or medicinal topics. There's a really neat treehouse that you can even stay in if you can ever get away or if you have a couple coming to visit that wants an unusual adventure. 



TIPS:
Study Google maps heavily before starting out!
Use Waze. . . are you getting it? It's not easy to find but not impossible either and the drive is beautiful.

Try not to go on a super hot day or try to go in the morning. Wear long pants and bring water. The bamboo stands are really something! Let the guide know the ages of your children.


FOOD:
In nearby Santa Barbara, a famous seafood restaurant awaits- Barco del Marisco.


Toucan Rescue Ranch


Located really close to us outside of Heredia (near Lomas), this is a trip for the kiddos to get close to 'tropical' animals including sloth babies, toucans, monkey, owls and so on. . . Leslie, the brainchild behind the Ranch has a neat story for the kids to see how the best laid plans can evolve. She never intended to become a major rehabilitation location for the country. She has students sponsoring animal enclosures and adopting sloths so it may be something the kids can tie in with their friends back home.

From Toucan Rescue Ranch blog

Our guests have really enjoyed touring with Carol who is a saint about setting up last minute tours for guests who are sorting out their schedules.

It's located in a beautiful setting (not that far from San Jose but a world away) and seeing the photos of what a malnourished toucan looks like and then seeing a pair soar overhead the next time you're at Manuel Antonio will change the experience for you. Same goes for the Scarlet Macaws. . .

Tips:

Be prepared for light showers- it's very close to the rain forest and you'll feel it.

Be prepared to want to donate. I have an Aunt who adopted a sloth. . .


That's it for now. These locations are low-hanging fruit for the San Jose area. There's so many hidden treasures like walking around at Monte de la Cruz (nice trails and playgrounds, our guests have been blown away by the 'highland' Costa Rica) or Bosque de la Hoja- both very close to you in Heredia and great 'in the field' ways to see pine forest transition to rain-ish forest. I enjoy that there are actual trails but often, I go out the roads that surround these places because they are sparsely used and in stunning locations.

I've always wanted to do the canopy tour located in Braulio Carillo (Rain Forest Adventures) known for the distinction as being the national park where the most tourists get lost! It's the park on the way to the Caribbean not too far from us with leaves as big as car windows--- a real rain forest if you will :)





Wishing you so well. It's a paradise out there and a hell depending on the moment. . . Hoping you have more of the former :)








Wednesday, November 21, 2012

What's to love about moving to Costa Rica, international school and wrinkles?

Wood-cut by Costa Rican artist, Emilia Prieto----captures early days as an expat

It's been a long time since we've checked in- more than a month. The cascade of bends in the wood-cut above captures how life has felt being a new expat in Costa Rica over the last four months.  Every week, every day- sometimes every hour- seems to bring a new wrinkle of an experience.  Some profound, exotic and jubilant while others have been been terrifying, painful and brought us to our knees.

We've had some major events like anaphylactic episodes for Gigi after she was swarmed by tropical ants and her system received more venom than it could handle. She had been attempting to machete a trail down the backside of a mountain to her friend Gaby's house; who knew that the tree trunk that appeared to be black was actually covered in zillions of ants?! 

The crew before they succumbed to the ants.

What else?
The kids changed schools. 
You know those lists that tally the worst stressors like death and divorce? Well, the process leading up to and then executing a school change felt like it should be right up there.  While Blue Valley School was an archetype for 21st Century teaching and learning--- the kids brimming with projects, team work,  iPads, and leveraging the best of the internet and virtual tools; socially/Spanish-wise the kids were languishing. It just didn't work to have only 45 minutes of  Spanish a week and be the only gringo in their classes (an awesome young girl in J's class who is gringa had lived here since she was 3 and we just didn't get that J and Gigi with such little Spanish would remain largely separate from their classmates).

When we heard '30% international population' we just didn't register that this number represented kids from other Central and South American countries. It turned out that it mattered. Not so much likely at a younger age, but by 6th and 8th grade the fact that many of these kiddos had been together since kindergarten and spoke fluent Spanish made it tricky.

Enter The European School. 
As often it does in life at a crossroads, a statistical miracle happened. Just as we were ready to make a change, spots opened for the kids at The European School. Most people grabbed us by the arm, looked us in the eye and said, 'Take the spots. It doesn't happen. The waiting lists are years long. That is a great school.' When we found out European School would offer the kids 4-5 hours of Spanish tutoring a week, we jumped at the chance. 

Whereas Blue Valley is known to be one of the best Science/Math schools in the country, the kids abruptly entered into a different world. The European School is literature, art and music focused in addition to being an International Baccalaureate program. It means that while the science and math are still rigorous, all in all it is a very different experience.



Sculpture on the grounds of The European School
The change in the kids and for the kids was extreme. Back in the States, friends who are teachers talk about 'just-right' books for emerging readers;  I couldn't help but to think European School is a 'just-right' school or the Goldilocks of an institution. What do we love about it?

*The kids read. . .a lot. From African literature for J and Beowulf and Canterbury Tales for Gigi, they are as immersed in books as they were in iPads at Blue Valley. What do we notice? Their world-view is exploding.
*The language instruction. One on one tutoring matters when you are learning a language. Their tutor at European School is not only kind and supportive, she's spending 4-5 hours a week with the kids and it's showing.
Gigi is tackling French. It's not been easy stepping into a class where your classmates have 13 months on you. Her teacher and her principal believe she can do it (so do we) but it hasn't been easy. I've never been prouder to hear she got an F on an exam because just having the courage to take an exam and do oral presentations when you understand nothing is remarkable. For the record, they were amazed she pulled a 32% after only a couple of classes!



*The fun. I have never visited a campus where there is more laughing, visible independence amongst the students,  ease, energy, vibrancy. . .  if I spoke French, I would describe it as "joie de vivre" but since I don't, I'll just say they are getting something right. There are a lot of rules (no nail polish, no devices at school, finish your food at lunch, no food at all from home) so I find it so curious that the kids are so. . . engaged and so confident in simply being themselves.  Maybe it is because of. . .
*The breaks. The kids have multiple 'breaks' (that means soccer games for J and chatting for Gigi as they stroll around the most beautiful campus you can imagine- my father likened it to a Mexican university campus where he once taught.) They have a long lunch to boot. Or is it the
*Art and Music? Tons of it. J has a music class every single day where they sing. J says it gets them riled up just before they are released for their first break. He comes home belting out the craziest tunes from the theme from "The Adams Family" to "Country Roads" to "We Will Rock You" and another Queen goodie "We are the Champions". Yes. He even knows the Carpenters. There are others, but he may kill me once he's old enough to know just how zany these songs are! The class has been a complete retrospective. It's hilarious yet brilliant for non-native English speakers learning to become fluent. Which leads to the. . .
*People. From the students to the teachers, the word 'international' is just too small. The kids have teachers from Switzerland to South Africa. Their friends are from all over (including a good one from Edmonds, Washington if you can believe it!). At a recent 3:3 basketball practice that J attended this was the line-up:

Tico-Mexican
Tico-American
French-South African
Asian-American
African-American-Australian

The European School puts a huge emphasis on globalism from the curriculum, to the grounds, to the art that hangs all over the school. Beginning in 7th grade, the kids choose between French or Mandarin. For most, it is their 3rd language.
*The food. There will definitely be more written about lunch but here it is in a nutshell.
Kids are given the job to serve their peers. It means they get out a bit early to go and set the tables. The kids are assigned to sit in mixed gender table groups. I really think they are having them practice a French dinner party! There is an adult seated at each table where they begin with salad every day followed by a homemade hot lunch. It's not acceptable to not finish your food or talk with food in your mouth. Have we seen a difference at home? All I can say is you better believe it. It's an understatement to say that I LOVE not having to pack lunches!
*The emphasis on public-speaking. For J it is reciting a poem from memory once a week. For Gigi it is the drama class that demands pretty serious amounts of memorization and recitation. I've seen them rise to it and enjoy it. What wasn't to love for Gigi to learn stage combat?? Today we learned that J was chosen to play the lead for the holiday play they'll put on next month. When I asked what we needed to do for a costume he replied, "we will make them." That pretty much sums up the school---let the kids create. Let them fail. Let them suffer. Let them rejoice. Let them be. Let them roam. Let them question. Let them grow.
*The field trips. Both kids went and picked coffee recently. J admitted they did a fair share of pelting the girls to pass the time (Rick and I couldn't help but to laugh and know that it was a great memory for those boys). The idea was that the kids stay connected to the turn of the season, the harvest, the history. J's class took a massive hike one Saturday to prepare for a 2 day trip they will take in the Spring in the mountains. Gigi is scheduled to go on an even longer overnight trip to the Caribbean coast next semester to visit the site that is central to a book they will read. Here's a summary:

La Loca de Gandoca caused a national outcry in Costa Rica when it was published in 1992. It blew the whistle on a secret plot by government officials and private investors to develop the Gandoca-Manzanilla Wildlife Refuge, which is one of the most biologically diverse sites in the world and supposedly protected by the Costa Rican constitution. The novel is the largely autobiographical account of Anacristina Rossis attempt to save the refuge from destruction.


I love that.
I love that J recently read a novel about Ethiopian Jews' migration to Israel. He's now moved on to a novel about Malawi but it hasn't stopped him from asking a lot of questions about Israel. War. Why? Last week European School brought in a man who was cycling around the world. I loved that the presentation prompted J to talk about life goals. Gigi had recently finished writing an essay about "The Last Lecture" and another about Steve Jobs' life, she too was immersed in pondering what is possible.

 I was on campus yesterday and walked by a bulletin board that had pinned to it a beautiful mask in its center. Surrounding it were the words, "Who is that behind your mask? What is your true identity?" It appears European School's curriculum and staff really want to know.

We'll see how it turns out, but so far we love, love, love the impact the school is having on the kids. How couldn't it turn out with banana trees ringing the campus, coffee plants dotting its border, grand trees preserved as centerpieces scattered throughout the campus? As my Dad noted, they seem to do their best to bring nature in. I would observe that European School also does its best to invite kids' identities to come out.

Coffee plants we passed on our way to J's Saturday morning hike.


Baby-O is flourishing.




It's hard to put a finger on why. She said one day it was the weather. . .seriously. She's making jokes with Spanish words but still primarily speaks English. We had a party the other night and a friend asked her in Spanish "Do you understand Spanish?" and she shook her head "no" causing the whole room to erupt in laughter. Her school, Ovo Montessori, has turned out to be sensational. They recently had an international festival (Again with the globalism- they start early.) here is what it was like for Baby-O.














Our littlest girl is happy. She's healthy. She loves stopping at the bakeries and getting little treats. Going to restaurants where the staff know her name and run to get her the little things that she likes. She seems to shine with the intimacy that is rampant here. Yes. She should've been on 'Cheers'. . .

J continues to wow us with his courage on the futbol field. I don't really know how he goes out there with the coaches and the other players yelling instructions and bad words to him in slang. I know he doesn't understand half of what they are saying even when they ask him to do something technical. Even when they're asked to do complicated drills and he just doesn't understand what they want from him, he endures. He watches. He mirrors. He improvises. He just simply does. This, all the while surrounded by kids who have been touching the ball since before they could walk. Put simply, many of them kick butt but J is undeterred. He keeps saying he came here to improve his futbol and that he has.


 He recently had a rough tumble on pavement (a big rain had rendered the field off-limits). His teammates crowded around him touching his back and worriedly looking over at me. The looks of relief when they helped him up to his feet were beyond poignant. 
These were the same boys who could barely look at him, the huge gringo, when he first arrived much less speak to him. Was it really just a short couple of months ago?



Going to futbol on Sunday mornings is always an adventure. Last time, we ran into a snake and a horse.

 

Every day a wrinkle. We try to enjoy them no matter in what form they arrive.


Recently, we spent a day at the beach and as I watched Gigi run in the waves and on the sand, I couldn't believe that exactly a year ago she was so sick. She's had some close calls here with her over-reactive allergic responses, but she's bounced back. Like Baby-O, she's flourishing and we can't put our finger on exactly why but it thrills us to hear her laugh and we just shake our heads at the plotting that she and her friend Gaby have a tendency to engage in. 




We recently had a Guy Fawkes party and Gigi, along with some friends, scared the bleep out of everyone as they went to their cars to leave in the dark of night.


Guy Fawkes is also code for 'Bonfire Night', celebrated in England. Gaby's Mom, Amanda, is a British expat and so to celebrate we had the mandatory bonfire:


and. . .


fireworks. 

We even burned an effigy!



My parents came for a visit. I loved seeing them immerse in Latin culture. It was as if they had lived in Chile yesterday and not 40 years ago. No one could believe my Mom was over 70. Here, people outright ask her how old she is and make a huge deal about how vibrant she looks ("preserved" is a word I heard more than once!). People kept asking, "What is your secret??" and I think they were really hoping for an answer!




Rick is a trooper with his crazy schedule 'commuting' to um, a region so far away from here it's nuts! True to form, he never complains and teaches us every single visit how to make the most out of a day. We miss him when he is away and try to relish the time he is here.


His schedule, like the wrinkles we face here,  have taught us a lot about trying to focus on having a good time, enjoying every moment, and forgetting about minutiae that doesn't really matter. He helps us take the long view. J adores his Dad and he's been unbelievably relaxed, accepting and resilient in the face of Rick's 'commuting' schedule. 

I'm grateful to have a husband who has embraced my wanderlust unconditionally for nearly two decades. 





I'm thankful that when I choked and thought this Costa Rica idea was too crazy, too fast, too uncharted, he booked the tickets and gently asked, 

"How will you live with yourself if you don't?"





Some days over the last four months I didn't know if the sun was setting on my sanity as things seem to fall apart at different turns.


Turns out, all I had to do was remember that the saying, "tomorrow is another day" has been around forever for a reason. In Afrikaans the translation is, "the opportunity will always be there."



 Finding out what is behind the mask


isn't always easy. 

But it is always important.






**********************
UPDATE
********************
 

Our street dog Casper is thriving. He gained 6.5 kilos in a week (that is a LOT) after a vet repaired, as best he could, the damage done to him when he was a bait dog. Some monster knocked all four of his canines out with a hammer so he wouldn't hurt what were probably prized pitbulls. He had an abscess so big, they believed it would have killed him before long. It was on its way to sinking into his jawbone. They removed chunks of shattered teeth lodged into his gums and removed the nub of what was left of one of the cracked off canines. The capacity this dog has for loving us and protecting us (he's chased off the literal thief in the night) is astounding considering what he has been through.  

 I think none of us have ever been so close to death as we were when we met Casper 3 months ago. My Dad said we should've named him Lazarus! It's hard not to be grateful when you wake up to see a second chance being played out. I wish he could meet our beloved Boxer back in Washington.




We also found out that he has a lot of Rhodesian Ridgeback to him. They were bred to bait lions. Casper teaches us a lot about fearlessness, he is that to his very core.




We miss you.